Amal, Spottiswoode Street - ‘it’s been a beautiful journey’

“I’ve just finished my master’s in Persian literature and film, but I first came to Edinburgh from Bahrain to study English literature and philosophy in 2016.

It was such a culture shock for me. Simple things like taking the bus. I had never done that. Ever. And other things, like using the phone. The first phone call I made in Edinburgh was to the NHS. I didn't know what to do, I didn't know how the system worked, I didn't know anything. I sat down and literally wrote word for word what I was going to say. And parties! I hadn’t been to many parties, and I couldn't bear the noise. I come from a very quiet village and although I’d drunk alcohol before, I'd never seen anybody drink it that way. It was a lot to take in.

But I also enjoyed it. I enjoyed starting to be more independent. I joined some clubs and societies and started to make my own friends and be more comfortable with the culture and explore more of that, and just be ‘out there’.”

Has being in Edinburgh changed you?

“Yes. Because Edinburgh is such an international community, I felt free here to identify my own set of values and life goals without being questioned or looked down upon. When people in Bahrain would say, ‘What are you going to do with your life? There’s no money in the arts’, I would get that. It’s a reality. But it was not that that I was against; it’s that they didn't see the value in that study. That’s what I didn’t like. And that’s what I love about Edinburgh. Here these things are considered valuable. That’s made a big difference for me.”

What are your objectives now?

“My immediate goal is getting my PhD in Modern Persian Literature and Film, learning the language and exploring that side of my heritage. It's been a beautiful journey to explore and to uncover the history behind my Persian grandmother's life and times. It’s been eye-opening, a whole new world for me.”

Ian, Burnside, East Craigs - ‘the negative has become a positive’

“I worked for the Royal National Institute of Blind People for 27 years and retired recently. Five days before I was due to retire, I had a stroke. That was a shock. I had no previous health issues, but I think the stress of retirement and the uncertainty of how things would work out got to me. It turned out that my blood pressure was ridiculously high. But I've been fortunate, because the only effect it has really had has been on my balance. So, I have made big corrections in my life which is why I'm out this morning for my daily long walk. I walk for miles.  I've also changed my diet, and I think everything is much more settled and positive again. The negative has become a positive.”

Girls of Craigmount High School, Bughtlin Burn

l-r: Katie, Layla, Daisy, Heather, Madison, Katie, Anna, Lauren, Abbie

Due to the girls’ time constraint to return to school from their lunch break we had no time to chat. But the willingness and warmth with which they cooperated for this shot spoke volumes about them.

Jean, Cramond Shore – ‘my 10-day visit became four months and a wedding!’

“I’m from New York. I came here to visit my fiancé, now husband, just before the pandemic. The original plan was for him to move to New York, but the pandemic changed everything, and my 10-day visit became four months and a wedding!

This was 2020. We moved to London because that felt a bit easier for me as an American, in terms of having visitors and people stopping by. But it didn't really work out for either of us. My husband is English, but he had already lived in Edinburgh for 10 years and always felt very much at home here. It's a place where I also feel at home, and so here we are, a month and a half into our residency in Edinburgh.”

How do you find Edinburgh in comparison to New York?

“The things that I love and miss about New York, I'm finding more of here. Much more than we found in London. There’s a real sense of community in Edinburgh. While New York is a really big city, the part that I was moving around in for work, for socializing and for living was actually about the size of Edinburgh. I lived in Queens and worked in Manhattan which felt more like living in a large neighbourhood. So, I don't miss being in a bigger city. In fact, I really like being somewhere that's easier to navigate on foot.

And there’s just so much natural beauty here. You can see the water and the mountains, one to one side of you, and one to the other side, and just the beautiful architecture. Yeah, Edinburgh's a lovely place to be.”

Great. Let’s get a photo.

“O, no. I don't do photos!"

Just one. From the back?

“Deal.”

Peter, (owner) Sole City Shoe Repairs & Key Cutting, St John’s Rd - 'the message was, "Get a job and leave school!'"

“I was told at 14 that I was never going to pass any exams, so the message was, ‘Get a job, and leave school.’ So I did, and when I was 17 I joined the Royal Scots and I was sent to Germany.

I was a boxer in the army. I was quite good at that, until I broke my arm in an accident. We were on a training exercise, and I was holding onto a truck that was hit by another one. I spent over a year in and out of hospitals in Germany and in London.”

Were you medically discharged from the army?

“No, but I couldn’t box any more. I went back to Germany and left the army three years later. I did two or three different jobs then, before coming to work with my dad when he opened this shop in 1982. I learned everything about this job from him. He’s been dead for 30-odd years now, and I’ve been running the business since he died.

I enjoy my work a lot. I enjoy meeting all the people who come in. The customers are mainly local people, although you do get the odd passer-by. I’m good at what I do, and I think you generally enjoy what you’re good at.”

Do you have any plans to retire?

“I plan to do this until someone comes in and finds me lying deid on the floor!”

The Train Cleaner - Waverley Station

A tribute to unheralded workers.

Graham, Bughtlin Market, East Craigs - ‘we just love each other and that’s it’

What’s the most helpful discovery you’ve made in your life?

“How much my wife loves me. Ingrid and I will have been married 58 years next week. She’s an invalid now, but we soldier on and do all that we can.”

What do you think is the secret of a happy marriage?

“I don’t know. We just love each other and that’s it.”

Jo, (owner) Abingers Café, Craigcrook Road, Blackhall – ‘Happy Halloween!’

“When I bought this place, it was all just plain white walls.”

Well, not anymore!

Jo, the Meadows - 'perseverance pays!’

“I’d give life satisfaction a solid 7 out of 10 right now. I’ve been playing the trumpet since I was 11 years old, and I’ve just got my first ever gig next month with my band, ‘Reekie Roots’. Perseverance pays!"

Ruby, Costa Coffee, Waverley Market - ‘I absolutely love being here’

Do you have time to speak with me?

“No, but I’m speaking with you anyway!”

Are you living in Edinburgh?

“Yes, and I just love it. I fell in love with Edinburgh when I came to the Fringe in 2022, and so I made it my first choice for university. I’m in first year studying Spanish and Italian, and it’s lived up to all my expectations. I absolutely love being here and I’m so looking forward to my course. I’m from Hull and I could have gone to other universities that would be easier for going back home, like Leeds or Newcastle or Manchester, but this is where I want to be.”

Boys of Craigmount High School, Bughtlin Burn

standing, l-r: Gregory, Mohammed, Max, Hamza, Alexander

kneeling, l-r: Kube, Murray, Evan

How do you enjoy school, boys?

Kube: "It couldn't be better."

Genuinely?

Kube: "Yes. All our teachers are one of a kind. Each of them has got something about them that's unique. In a good way."

Do you all agree?

"Yes!"

They meant it.

Eric, Bughtlin Market, East Craigs - ‘don’t answer her back!’

“I was a road racing cyclist for 14 years of my life. I raced all over Scotland, Ireland and in the south of England for three clubs called The Dyna Couriers, The White Heather and The Comet. We were racing over distances of 120 to 200 miles. But when I married Sylvia there was no time to train; you needed at least two days a week for that. Now I’m 86 and she’s 89, and we’ve been married almost 58 years. I was 28 when we married.”

What’s the key to your long and successful marriage?

“Don’t answer her back!”

Tell me a bit about your need for a mobility aid now.

“I had an operation on a broken bone in my foot about eight years ago, but the surgeon made a mess of it. He invited me back for another operation but I said, ‘Nah, don’t bother.’ Until then I was fully mobile. I’m not happy about it, but on the other hand there’s nothing you can do. So at the end of the day, I’m just happy that I can still get about. I can get on a bus and go down to Tesco and get things there. And we have a son and a daughter living very near us. My daughter’s trying to get me onto Facebook. You know what? I don’t even know what Facebook is!”

Nahla, The Insect Café, Leith Walk - ‘I had crickets this morning with my porridge’

“In our collective conscience insects are something you eat for survival, or you dare someone to do. We have a sort of ‘I’m A Celebrity Get Me Out Of Here’ culture about them. But we’re normalising it here. This is food, and it’s very tasty and very nutritious food. Insects have up to 64 grams of protein per 100. That’s three times more than a steak. And it has lots of potential for food security because they don't require a lot of land, water or feed compared to other conventional protein types, including plant protein.”

Where did you get the idea for The Insect Café?

“I'm an ecologist by training and I’ve researched different insects along the years for different projects. And I'm just curious about things. I love cooking, I love experimenting and trying new things and just playing around with them in the kitchen. So, yeah, I just combined the two passions, the ecology and the science side, along with my love of cooking and I created this.”

What percentage of a biscuit on your counter, for example, is made up of insect?

“We substitute all the flour with our insect flour. It’s not an addition, it's a substantial part of it. A single cookie has around 13 grams of protein. For the rest of the ingredients, we only use natural sweeteners like sweet potato and parsnip.”

Do you use this at home yourself?

“Yes, I eat this as part of my diet. I had crickets this morning with my porridge, and they taste brilliant. I start with them from whole, then I roast them and then I crush them. Most insects fall under a taste profile that is earthy and nutty. You can add lots of other nuts and seeds that fit nicely into that profile. Domestic crickets, which we use here, have more of a deep taste which works well with chocolate and berries and things that have strong flavours. Mealworms are much fluffier and lighter. They work a bit better in airy recipes. It's just an amazing source of joy!”

Where could someone in Edinburgh buy crickets to go with their porridge?

“Well, we sell them! We’re the first cafe in Scotland, and one of only two in the UK. There’s another cafe that sells insects in London. So, there’s not many of us. Within Europe you can just count us on both hands. So, yeah, if people want to find us, they're welcome to come and see, have a chat, try a sample and give it a go.”

I guess education has an important part to play in bringing about change?

“I collaborate with a few universities to help with the research. We have two students, one from the University of Edinburgh and one from Queen Margaret University helping us with promoting and better understanding the nutritional value within the Scottish context.

And kids, even the youngest kids, just love it! They just go for it. I think their parents avoid anything that has bugs, but kids go for the ones that have bugs. They’re just like, ‘I want the one with the bug!!’”

Student Life - Caffé Nero and the Light of Knowledge, Nicolson Street

Bryan, Cramond Shore – ‘I began to walk again and talk again’

“I had a brain haemorrhage in 2016 when I was 60, and then a stroke four years later. I went from being a pretty young 64-year-old to being an old 65-year-old in a heartbeat. But I survived it, which is quite something because there’s only about a 5% survival rate for the type of stroke I had. But thanks to my wife and other friends and family we got through it, and I began to walk again and talk again - which my wife’s probably not too happy about now!

So, then I started doing some work with a charity called Different Strokes. That’s a charity for younger stroke sufferers. When you mention a stroke people think of someone who’s 85 or 90 years old. But it’s not like that. Strokes can start from the age of 18 or 19 years upwards. I enjoy photography, especially photographing people’s faces, so when Covid came along and I was looking for something to do, I decided to publish these pictures in a little coffee-table book. I self-financed it, published it under the title Faces of the World, and took donations for it on behalf of Different Strokes. So, they made a few quid out of it, which was nice. It was fun.”

Do you still take photos?

“All the time. Some are good. Some are not. And that’s OK.”

Lyndsay, (social worker), Rannoch Road, Clermiston - ‘our value doesn’t come from what we’ve got’

“I'm lucky to be quite happy. But I’ve faced challenges, like a lot of people, in my mental health.”

How do you deal with that?

“I play sport but the main thing has been the support of my friends and family. It’s not always easy to ask for that support, but sometimes it's necessary. They’re very supportive which is why I feel lucky. I enjoy talking with them and spending time with them. When you speak to people who haven’t got that, you realise just how lucky you are. 

I'm a social worker. I see how some people struggle. I think that helps me to put things in my own life into perspective. And my own challenges help me in my work. They help me to have empathy, and to relate to people who are going through difficult times.”

What do you think people are struggling with most?

“I think poverty is the big one. It affects a lot of people's mental health. I think a lot of social problems stem from that and from the isolation it creates. Having more equal opportunities from the beginning would be very helpful.”

What are your aspirations for your own future?

“My ultimate ambition is to retire early, and live a nice, relaxed life! Not that I don't love my job, I do, but I just think that there's more to life than work, work, work and achieve, achieve …  I think that we should all be able to just live a bit more peacefully, to have enough to live comfortably, but not in excess. That’s a good life. Our value doesn’t come from what we’ve got. I believe that.”